Koh Maak

Just a few kilometres south of Ko Chang yet a million miles from its heavy urbanisation lies Ko Maak, undoubtedly an overlooked gem in Thailand's lavish crown. A tropical haven for those who like the quiet life, it has so far escaped the grasp of the major developers and remains a small slice of paradise locked in time. With stunning white sandy beaches adjoining crystal clear water it is fast becoming famous for its scenery; British newspaper The Sunday Times recently included Ko Mak as one of their 'Top Ten Beaches in the World', and the past few years has seen the island's beauty also attracting film makers looking for an authentic tropical location. A single track road meanders through the island and offers the chance for the explorative to find their own deserted beach, or perhaps take in the sights and sounds of the jungle. If you're searching for your own slice of 'Robinson Crusoe' then this is possibly about as close as it comes.Coconut and rubber tree plantations cover a vast proportion of the island, interspersed with patches of lush virgin forest. The population of the island is created from two parameters; one group being the land owners, descendants of Chao Sua Seng, a Chinese Affairs Officer and Coconut Baron who owned the island a century ago, and the other being the workers who have settled and live on the plantations. The population now numbers upwards of 600 people.Until the 1990's there were only a few package hotels on the island; today there are more than 20, ranging from modest backpacker accommodation to luxury boutique resorts. The often misleading rumour that Ko Maak only caters to pre-booked tours can be no further from the truth, the majority of places welcoming walk–in trade. With three piers currently in operation serving speed boats and ferries to Ko Chang and the mainland there's plenty of options for getting to and from the island, and most places send a representative to the piers to tout for business and bring you to their resort for free. Outside of the resorts there's not much to do except soak up the splendour of nature, and perhaps take a snorkelling or diving trip to the nearby Marine Park which offers easily the best selection of marine life in the Gulf of Thailand. Days are spent lazing around on the beach, in a hammock, or perhaps taking advantage of the newly designed bicycle tracks around the island. Nightlife is virtually non-existent except for a few cosy bars and restaurants; if you're looking for disco's and a bit of company then neighbouring Ko Chang will far better suit your needs. Ko Maak is that tranquil place that many people come to Thailand looking for, and those who find it usually stay far longer than planned. As to how long it will remain this way we will have to wait and see … for now though, it truly is a slice of heaven.

Sights and activites
Ko Maak is ideal for exploring by bicycle thanks to its relatively flat terrain and good network of quiet roads and dirt tracks. In early 2007 the government also awarded a grant to the island to make a purpose built cycling track all around the island which should start to be realised in late 2007. Some bungalow operations rent mountain bikes for about 30B/hr or 150B for a day, or alternatively head to Nong Massage (T:(089) 017 9938) on the main road to Ao Nid who have a large rental fleet. For the less physically inclined, motorbikes can be rented from virtually anywhere, generally priced at 300B/day, or 70B/hour. The beaches don't have a good drop-off so you'll have to wade a fair way out if you want to get very wet or enjoy some localised snorkelling. Sea kayaking is relatively popular and the nearby teardrop islands of Ko Kradad, Ko Kham ad Ko Rayang Nok make for interesting destinations. Kayaks can be rented from most resorts for 100B/hr or 500B a day. Baan Koh Mak rents out windsurfers at 100B/hr or 500B for the day, though most of the time there's not enough wind to warrant it.Scuba is growing fast in the area, particularly due to the quality of the reef and marine life in the nearby National Marine Park. Three operators work on the island; Koh Mak Divers - (083) 297 7724 (British/Skandinavian), Paradise Divers - (085) 090 8689 (German), and Ploy(Thai/French). All can offer similar trips to the nearby islands and reefs, as well as trips to Ko Kood. Koh Mak Divers (PADI) have been operating on the island for over 10 years and are probably the most knowledgeable on local sights, whereas Ploy operates out of Ko Chang with freelance instructors and speed boats.By far the favoured activity on Ko Mak is lying by the beach and relaxing, so it pays to be aware that sand flies inhabit these areas and their bites are incredibly itchy. The locals swear that Coconut Oil, which can be found all over the island very cheaply, is the perfect deterrent ... just rub it on and the flies stop biting, plus in enhances your tan! Anyone who has a taste for exploring should be directed to TripMakers (khunrano @ yahoo.com T: (089) 804 2595), a bar and booking office for walks and tours around the local area. Run by two likeable characters, Rano and O, you'll quickly find yourself in a friendly groove whether you want to book a tour or simply stop by for a drink. The guys have internet facilities also. Their bar can be found on the jungle road just behind Lazy Days.Massage is another pastime on the island, with two venues coming recommended. The first is long time player Sawan Spa, a truly stunning wooden gazebo sitting over the water where pleasant music mixes with the sounds of the waves whilst the first class crew remove your aches and pains. The Spa is just beside Lazy Days resort (southern end) on the rocks. Secondly there's Nong Massage. Whilst not offering the five star location of Sawan Spa the staff are equally able, and as its on the main road in the village it makes a great after dinner treat. Both places offer good value treatments with Thai massage coming in at a reasonable 250B/hour.

Getting there and away

Boat
To/from Laem Ngop (mainland)

Slowboats leave Laem Ngop daily at around 15:00 and arrive at Ko Maak about 17:40. Tickets cost 300B.Speedboats leave Laem Ngop near Trat for Ko Maak at 09.30, 10.30, 13.30, and 16.00 and the journey takes about an hour, some stopping at Ko Wai on the way. Going back, speedboats leave Ko Maak at 08:00, 10.30 and 13:00. It's wise to book with your resort or at one of Ko Maak's piers the day before. Tickets are 450B. To make a booking call either Leelawadee Speed Boat (089) 749 7023, or Panan Speed Boat (085) 190 5103. In low season the speed boats cease running and the slow boat can also stop, depending on custom. It's best to call ahead to your chosen resort if you're going in the low season so they can help with travel arrangements.

To/from other islands

There are speedboats leaving Ko Maak's Ao Nid Pier for Ko Kut costing 200B. Departure times vary.From Ko Chang, the Island Hopper leaves Bang Bao about 08:00 each morning, passing by Ko Wai and arriving at Ko Maak about 11:00. There's also an afternoon service that leaves Ko Chang about 12:00. Heading back, boats depart Ko Maak about 10:00 and 14:00. Prices range from 200B to 500B, depending on whether you're simply going to the next island, or taking advantage of the round trips.There's also a number of smaller companies based along Bang Bao pier on Ko Chang that provide passage to Ko Maak so if you've missed one boat, keep asking. Monkey Island provides a speed boat to and from Bang Bao, (leaving 08.00 and returning 14.00), and if you contact the Panan speed boat company they can also stop in Ko Chang's Dan Mai pier on their way to and from the island.