วันพุธที่ 15 เมษายน พ.ศ. 2552

Koh Lanta

For many a year, Ko Lanta was the lesser-visited backpacker spot in the region. It played second fiddle to the grand backpacker magnets of Ko Phi Phi and Railay Beach on the west coast, and Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao on Thailand's east coast. But for those in the know, a bit of second fiddle was just what the doctor ordered.As travellers moaned about packed out beaches and overpriced bungalows on Ko Phi Phi and Railay, sausage-shaped Ko Lanta was awash with near-deserted beaches and surprisingly good value accommodation.But, like all the best secrets, word about just how great Ko Lanta is has slowly slipped out and over the last couple of years in particular, there's been substantial development. But don't panic, just because there's a six-star boutique over the headland doesn't mean all the bamboo shacks have gone the way of the Dodo. Instead, today Ko Lanta has something for just about every budget -- from luxurious hideaways to backpacker crash huts, and everything in between. And, in a nod to it remaining off the package tour radar, Ko Lanta remains seasonal -- in low season much of the island shuts down.


There's an upside to low season of course -- if you don't mind coming out of the ocean to the occasionally soggy beach towel, you'll get some astounding cheap deals -- and more than likely have the beach all to yourself.In season, Ko Lanta is far more popular, and there's stacks of ways to keep busy -- from sunbaking (yes you can be busy sunbaking) through to snorkelling and diving trips, elephant rides, afternoon volleyball matches, back-country explorations or just slowly but steadily wearing out your hammock.The scene is considerably less hectic than the busier islands and, due to the smooth beaches and calm waters it's particularly popular with those travelling with young children. A relaxing spot overall -- if you have the time make the effort to wander down to Lanta -- you will not regret it.


Other spots near here


Baan Phruklom Beach
If you're heading to Ko Lanta early in the season, when many of the resorts and guesthouses are still shut, Baan Phruklom, just to the south of Long Beach and near covered in coconut palms, could be a good bet.While the beach here is rocky, making it difficult for swimming even at high tide and just about impossible at low tide, some of the accommodation here nevertheless tends to open early in the season making it a popular choice among those who, for whatever reason find themselves hitting Ko Lanta early.Because of the rocky beach and difficulty of swimming, this is a good spot to at least consider opting for a guesthouse or resort that has a swimming pool -- otherwise you'll be spending half your time waiting for the tide to come in.During the high tide the snorkelling over the rocky reef is reasonable, though it tends to catch quite a lot of rubbish that gets washed up and stuck on the reef. The locals blame the rubbish on Phi Phi Islands refuse (of course they have nothing whatsoever to do with it) and say that by high season most of it gets washed away ... unfortunately probably just further down the coast into Trang.
Come the evening the beachside resort bars have a good atmosphere with a few more people about and there's enough places here to give some diversity of eating options.There are several email shops and mini-marts along the main road and a few western restaurants.


Klong Dao Beach
The long, sweeping Klong Dao is the northern-most beach on Ko Lanta, and the first to establish itself on the tourist trail. The bay stretches for approximately 2.5kms of golden sand and faces onto calm blue waters for most of the year, with, as with all of Ko Lanta, the best time of the year being between November to April. Because of how the beach is sheltered, the waters are very calm, even by Lanta's standards, making for a particularly safe beach for swimming with no rocks and the water has a gentle drop-off. Kong Dao is a favourite among families because of this.Given it's proximity to Ban Saladan (which is where the ferry lands) Klong Dao was the first beach on Ko Lanta is really take off, and today it is easily the most developed beach on the island. There is a wide variety of accommodation available along the beach including villas, mid-standard hotels, chalets and bamboo bungalows suitable for all budgets. Just about everywhere worth considering has a swimming pool.
The main road from Saladan runs diagonally in towards the beach and gets very dusty when it is hot and dry. Running off the main road are lots of small sois and driveways heading to the hotels and bungalows. In the low season, when many of these places are closed all of the unpaved sois are absolute mud pits, almost impassable without a four-wheel drive. There are plenty of mini marts, food stalls, restaurants, banking facilities, internet cafes and travel agents in the area, along with a bunch of dive shops -- so Klong Dao can be a good place to head when you have "stuff you need to get done".


Klong Khong Beach
Three kilometre-long Klong Khong beach is perhaps the longest beach on Ko Lanta and is home to a comprehensive selection of budget and traveller orientated bungalow set-ups.Klong Khong is located between Long Beach and Khlong Nin Beach, towards the centre of Ko Lanta's western coast.The beach is very popular among travellers because of the reasonable rates, but the beach quality is a bit of an issue here. The sans is coarser than that of some of Ko Lanta's other beaches, but there's also a bit of an issue with swimming.When the tide is low it gets quite rocky in places and swimming can become difficult, while at high tide the amount of sand narrows right down because the beach is quite steep down to the sea. A rocky reef which runs along the length of the beach further complicates matters -- especially during low tide.
On the upside, the snorkelling is pretty good offshore (at high tide) and there's no shortage of funky bars and cafes to relax in while you wait for the water level to get about right.The beach is called Klong Khong beach after a khlong (canal) which runs behind the bungalows and empties out to see. This was probably quite pretty at one stage -- a long time ago before any bungalows were built, but today the khlong can get pretty festy -- and smelly -- and mosquitoes can be a real problem.Towards the southern end is an area where the local fishermen tie up their boats to the shore -- this doesn't help the swimming potential of the beach, but makes for some very picturesque sunset shots.


Klong Jak Bay
A gorgeous small bay towards the southern end of Ko Lanta, Klong Jak Bay features steep rocky headlands covered in tropical forest and a fresh stream running down to the middle of the beach.The bay is south of Ao Kantiang Bay and just north of Ao Mai Pai, making it the second last beach along this coast of Lanta.The beach here is simply superb for swimming, free of rocks and deep blue waters, we reckon it is probably the best beach on Ko Lanta. Off the beach, following up the stream past the road and into the jungle is a waterfall, the originally named Klong Jak Waterfall. It is a fair walk up to the falls -- taking a couple of hours there and back. There are signs along the main road pointing the way, so there's little risk of getting lost -- but you can ask for a sketch map from accommodation here if you need it.
Klong Jak used to be home to a single resort, the Waterfall Bay Resort (which has reinvented itself as the Andalanta Resort) but there's a few other players on the bay now, with Last Beach Resort (which has moved north from it's old home on Ao Mai Pai) being about the pick of the budget bunch.


Long Beach
Also known as Phra-Ae Beach, the aptly named Long Beach is, you guessed it, the longest beach on Ko Lanta. At approximately five kilometres in length, Long Beach boasts pretty fine sand and lots of good swimming -- not too many problems with pesky rocks here and the water gets deep at a nice rate. This is the second beach running down the west coast of Ko Lanta -- after Klong Dao.Like it's northern neighbour, things are getting more developed -- it's very popular with families and the resorts and their facilities reflect this.While there's not major resorts here, there is ongoing construction and we expect to see substantial changes here in the coming years. That said the centre of the beach still remains largely undeveloped -- so there's still plenty of scope for getting a strip of sand to yourself.Food and entertainment-wise there's no shortage of bars and restaurants -- especially at the southern end of the beach. We have heard some strange reports about the restaurateurs being extremely competitive with one another (to the point of things getting ridiculous) so if the place you sit down at has a bit of a weird vibe, just leave and try somewhere else.
The main north south road runs a couple of hundred metres back off the main beach and you'll find most of the tourist services you'll need (ATM, internet, small shops etc) along this road. Long Beach is about a ten minute drive from Ban Saladan.


Klong Nin Beach
Running south after Klong Khong Beach, Klong Nin Beach is a very long, white sand beach with a good collection of bungalow options from backpacker through to quite smart.Towards the northern end of the beach, just to the north of where the main road turns inland a small river empties out to sea. This small river splits Khlong Nin into two parts -- a small northern segment and a far longer southern stretch. In bad weather and after heavy rain, you don't want to be swimming too close to where this empties out.This small northern section has a few quiet smart resorts wedged in together -- and probably as a result of this concentration of hotels, there's quite a few services very close by here -- small shops, travel agents and what not. The much longer southern part of Khlong Nin is far more spread out affair with bungalows and resorts dotted along its length. And while it is hardly crowded, the centre of the southern stretch is fairly built out.
The better swimming at Klong Nin is, despite the bunched in resorts, at the northern section which has fewer rocky patches than the southern length. But it's all pretty reasonable. Both stretches of beach are also notable for huge umbrella trees (bai toey) Ko Lanta is famous for them.Grazing wise, the beach has no shortage of beach bars and there is a fair range of beach side restaurants -- with more available off the main beach.

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