Koh Pha Ngan

Although best known for its full moon parties, which attract thousands of travellers from all over the globe, there is a lot more to stunning Ko Pha Ngan than getting trashed and passing out in the powder-soft white sand. Ko Pha Ngan has swathes of beautiful beaches, great walks, adventurous boat and fishing trips and even kite-boarding. Equally compelling for many is just spending a few weeks in a hammock, watching the sun rise and fall.Ko Pha Ngan is the second largest island after Samui in the southern Gulf of Thailand, and is around 100km from the mainland. Stretching over an area of 168 sq km, 70% of its topography is mountainous with the remainder beaches and coconut groves. Over 10,000 people permanently live on the island, with the majority concentrated around Thong Sala. A huge number of migrants also call the island home, so the guy taking your dinner order is as likely to be from Roi Et as Thong Sala.

As in the rest of Thailand, most people are Buddhist, but some Muslims live in the village of Baan Tai. The first inhabitants of the island are believed to have been Muslims from Pattani or Malayans from Nakhon Sri Thammarat.Aside from the tourist trade, the mainstays of the island's economy are fishing and coconuts. It's worth knowing that between them, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Samui produce more than one million coconuts each year for export to Bangkok. The best time to visit Ko Pha Ngan is during the hot season from January to April. May to December sees the monsoon set in, with poor weather and a quick deterioration in road quality. The crowds thin out then, however, making the island appealing to some travellers.

Sights and activites

Diving on Ko Pha Ngan
Diving and snorkelingKo Pha Ngan has a smaller, but no less active dive scene than the underwater mecca to the north, Ko Tao. Schools here offer trips to some of the Gulf's most popular dive sites of Sail Rock and the Southwest Pinnacle, which lie roughly halfway between Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao. There are also some quality dive sites closer to Ko Pha Ngan in the waters off Ko Ma, Haad Salad and Ko Tae Nok (the island to the south-west of Ko Pha Ngan which you pass as the your boat arrives at Thong Sala.For snorkeling, your best bets are around the northwest of the island, off beaches such as Ko Ma, Haad Khom, Haad Salad, Haad Ya and Haad Chaophao.Dive schools also arrange trips to the Angthong Marine National Park, with popular sites there including Ko Wao and Ko Yippon.Dive schools on Ko Pha Ngan includeLotus Dive resortChaloklum, Ko Pha NganPhone: (077) 374 142 Phangan DiversKo Ma, Ko Pha NganPhone: (077) 375 117info@phangandivers.comhttp://www.phangandivers.com/MTF Diving Ban Tai, Ko Pha NganPhone: (077) 377 247bookings@mtfdiving.comhttp://www.mtfdiving.com/Chaloklum Diving Chaloklum Diving, Ko Pha NganPhone: (077) 374 025http://www.chaloklum-diving.com/Haad Yao DiversHaad Yao, Ko Pha NganPhone: (06) 2793085contact@haadyaodivers.comhttp://www.haadyaodivers.com/Tropical Dive ClubThong Nai Pan Noi, Ko Pha Nganhttp://www.tropicaldiveclub.com/

Trekking, waterfalls and mountains
Certainly not most people's raison d'etre for visiting Ko Pha Ngan, but those who do take some time to explore the island's hinterland will find it full of surprises. Ko Pha Ngan's highest peak at 630m is Khao Ra and it's possible to climb up to the top in a half-day from both Chaloklum and Thong Nai Pan.There's a well-worn route through the jungle to the quiet bays of Haad Thian and Haad Yuan, and the journey takes a couple of hours. It's possible to keep trekking up the east coast as far as Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi, but this could take days and should be attempted by experienced trekkers.There are attractive waterfalls to visit near Mae Haad (Wang Sai Waterfall), Chaloklum (Paradise Waterfall) as well as some more isolated falls on the east coast.Companies offering these type of tours inclue:Phangan SafariChaloklumPhone: (04) 850 6273;(01)396 3265Phangan AdventureChaloklumPhone: (077) 374 142http://www.phanganadventure.com/

Kick-boxing
The sport of Muay Tai, or Thai kick-boxing is hugely popular on Ko Pha Ngan with fights almost every night. Most of the fights are at Thong Sala, where there are three kick-boxing arenas. If you want to learn a thing or two about the sport yourself, there's a couple of options, with the Thong Sala-based Jungle Gym -- Phone: (07) 7375 115 and Chainarach Cho Watcharin --Phone: (06) 9538 253 both offering lessons. Another option is the Horizons Muay Thai camp on Haad Thian.

Parties
Full Moon Party

For many travellers, a visit to Ko Pha Ngan wouldn't be complete without a night of unrestrained hedonism at the island's monthly Full Moon Party. The event has evolved from a relatively small affair in the early 1980's to become one of the world's biggest outdoor bashes, regularly attracting more than 12,000 people to the party-mecca of Haad Rin.Most of the action takes place on Haad Rin Nok (Sunset Beach). The beach is filled with speakers playing everything from trance, house to R&B. If you don't like the music on one part of the beach you can simply move to another, and there's also plenty of fire shows to keep you entertained.If you're starting to feel over the beach, you can head to one of Haad Rin's bar, the vast majority of which are usually packed-out during the party. Paradise Bungalows, the Drop in Club and the Vinyl Club are popular picks. Things gradually get messier as more and more rubbish is discarded on the beach and people start passing due to drunkenness and pure exhaustion. Full moon after-parties start up in the morning from 11:00 for those who still haven't had enough.It's a good idea to leave your valuables in your resort's safe. Wear shoes if you're planning to dance on the beach, as broken glass becomes more of a problem as the night drags on.Full Moon party dates for 2006/2007 include:August 9, 2006September 7, 2006October 7, 2006November 5, 2006December 6, 2006January 3, 2007February 3, 2007March 3, 2007April 2, 2007May 2, 2007May 31, 2007The party can sometimes be moved back or forward a few days if it coincides with a Buddhist holiday, so double check. http://fullmoonparty-thailand.com/

Black Moon Party

The clubs on Haad Rin pump every night whether there's a moon or not, and there are other lunar-directed parties on other parts of the island. Set at Sramadora Waterfall near Ban Kai is the trance-fuelled Black Moon Party.Black Moon party dates for 2006/2007 include:August 23, 2006September 22,2006October 21, 2006November 20, 2006December 19, 2006January 18, 2007February 16, 2007March 18, 2007April 16, 2007May 16, 2007June 14, 2007July 14, 2007http://blackmoonparty-kohphangan.com/

Half Moon Party

A psychedelically decorated piece of jungle near Ban Tai is the setting for the Half Moon Festival, held about one week before and one week after the full moon. There's an admission cost of 300B.Half Moon party dates for 2006/2007 include:August 2 & 18 & 31, 2006September 15 & 30,2006October 15 & 29, 2006November 13 & 28, 2006December 13 & 28, 2006January 11 & 26, 2007February 10 & 24, 2007March 9 & 25, 2007April 8 & 22, 2007May 7 & 22, 2007June 8 & 22, 2007July 7 & 22, 2007http://www.halfmoonfestival.com/

Moon Set Party

The Pirates' Bar, at the southern tip of Ao Chaophao has a monthly Moon Set Party, usually three days before the full moon.

Meditation retreat at Wat Khao Tham
Run by an American-Australian couple, Wat Khao Tham is cave temple located near the top of a hill overlooking Ban Tai. The couple offer 10-day meditation retreats usually in the later-half of each month. Those interested can write or inquire in person.Schedule for 2006/2007August 17-26, 2006December 14-23, 2006January 17-26, 2007February 14-23, 2007March 13-22, 2007More information: http://www.watkowtahm.org/More detailsWat Khao Tham, Ao Ban Tai, Ko Pha Nganhttp://www.watkowtahm.org/

Kiteboarding
With branches on Ko Pha Ngan, Chumphon and Pattaya, Cuttlebone is a well-regarded operator renting out kiteboarding equipment and also offering tuition -- it was the first kiteboarding school in Thailand.Wind conditionsNovember to December: N-E 15-22 knotsJanuary to March : S-E 12-20 KnotsApril to May: Not ConstantJune to November: S-W 12-20 KnotsWater conditionsFlat, waist deep warm waterWater temperature : 24-28°C (75-82 °F)Very low tide during the day, from April to OctoberMore detailsGolden Light Resort, Ao Thong Salahttp://www.cuttlebone.net/
Getting there and away

Air
The closest airport to Ko Pha Ngan is on Ko Samui. There are regular flights from Bangkok (and elsewhere to Ko Samui). From the airport it is a short ride to the pier on Ko Samui that runs boats to Haad Rin on Ko Pha Ngan.A second option is to fly to Surat Thani (on the mainland) as the tickets are slightly cheaper, but the longer trip (from the airport to the pier and then a considerably longer ferry ride) pretty much wipes out the saving in airfare.

Other spots near here

-Ao Thong Sala to Baan Kai

-Haad Rin

-Haad Saikantang

-Ko Pha Ngan East Coast

Ko Pha Ngan's east coast is the island's wildest -- a coast where cliffs and jungle interrupt glimmering beaches and secluded bays. Some beaches, even today, can only be reached on foot or by boat, but if you're looking to get away from the scene to savour a few days to a month of sheer beach paradise, you're in the right part of the world.The northern most beaches on the east coast are the twin bays of Thong Nai Pan Noi and Thong Nai Pan Yai -- thought by some to be the most beautiful on Ko Pha Ngan. moving further south, you'll reach Than Sadet and Thong Heng, followed by the extremely isolated Haad Yao. Close to Haad Rin you'll hit Haad Why Nam, Haad Thian and Haad Yuan in rapid succession. All are fine destinations in their own way.

Thong Nai Pan Noi

The smaller of the two Thong Nai Pan beaches, Thong Nai Pan Noi is the busier of the two as well. This gorgeous simi-circular cove is lined with soft white sand surrounded by rocky, tree-covered headlands and densely forrested mountains rising up behind to create a stunning environment. The pristine water here is great for swimming, though a stream pouring into the sea at the south make for better conditions toward the centre and north of the beach. The easily accessible rocky northern hillside provides excellent views down the beach and around to another small beach.This area is more happening than it's sister beach to the south with more bars and restaurants to choose from, and the accommodation here tends to have a classier feel. There are some good simple budget options available, but a couple of upscale places have pushed the average prices up considerably, and sadly the budget huts here aren't quite as budget as they should be. That said, there's some great places worth checking out, and the atmosphere is very laid-back and the scenery spectacular.If we were heading to Ko Pha Ngan for a beach break, Thong Nai Pan Noi would be our first choice.

Thong Nai Pan Yai

Thong Nai Pan Yai is easily twice as long as its little sister beach, Thong Nai Pan Noi, and offers better spaced out resorts as a result. It tends to be quieter and more subdued than its little sister as well, though that's not to say there aren't some decent beach bars and plenty of opportunities for a good time. The main village has a small school and temple and while it feels relatively undeveloped it offers most services that travellers could need -- including an ATM. The long, gently-curving cove features beautiful clear blue water great for swimming or kayaking around the rocky headlands, and the sand is mostly soft and smooth -- terrific for sunbathing or barefoot strolls. A small fisherman's anchorage lies to the south, so swimming and sunbathing conditions are better toward the centre and north of the beach. Lovely green hills rise steeply on all sides making the scene all the more lovely and provide some good walking opportunities. The resorts and bungalows here are mostly simple, family-run bungalow affairs although there are also some hotel-style joints that provide more comfort but less charm. Overall, there are many good options here, some outstanding, with something for everyone, most of which are easy on the budget. Popular among families, backpackers and travellers of all kinds, Thong Nai Pan Yai has been a big draw on Ko Pha Ngan for some time and continues to attract visitors year-round.Moving on down the coast, Haad Sadet and Haad Thong Heng are two hidden-away beaches midway down Ko Pha Ngan's east coast. If you're after sleepy isolation with clear waters and few (if any) distractions, then these twin bays may be a good choice. Be warned though that Haad Sadet is popular with day trippers who visit on longtail trips, mostly out of Haad Rin. These trips primarily stop at Haad Sadet to see Than Sadet waterfall a small set of falls, which tumbles over some rocks a twenty minute walk back off the beach. Outside of these trips, intrusions are kept to a minimum.

Haad Sadet

The clear water and reasonable depth off Haad Sadet make it a popular snorkelling and swimming destination. The laid-back atmosphere of this isolated Ko Pha Ngan beach make it the perfect place to relax and soak up the sun -- a feat made easier due to a general lack of shade. Several good restaurants line the white sandy beach and the green cliffs to the north provide an escape from the sun and double as comfortable places to kick back and enjoy the island life.
Haad Thong Heng

Much smaller and rockier than the northern beach of Haad Sadet, Haad Thong Heng offers more peace and quiet than its northern neighbour. With only one small resort, Haad Thong Heng is truly rustic and serene. As ther are more restaurants and better swimming at Haad Sadet, many staying here make the short walk to Haad Sadet for a change of scenery. Just beware of the monitor lizards living along the river between the two beaches.

Haad Yao

One of the loveliest and most deserted beaches on the island, Haad Yao has a long strip of soft white sand lined with coconut groves and surrounded by steep green hills. This is a tranquil place to stroll along the beach, sunbathe or take advantage of great swimming on what feels like your own private beach. The only resort here, Ploy, is no longer operating, so you can't currently stay here unless you're camping. Nonetheless, it's worth a day trip here just for the scenery and tranquillity. You can catch a longtail boat or walk here from Haad Thian -- the walk takes about two hours.

Haad Why Nam

As the signs say, why not? This beautiful tiny cove is one of the most idyllic and tranquil spots on the island. The lovely white beach is coarser than others, so you'll leave with tough feet, but the pristine water gets deep quickly so the swimming is very good. With just one bungalow operation, the crowds are usually minimal, but Why Nam does see some overflow and day trippers from nearby Haad Thian, and people flock here on some evenings during the peak season. Most of the time, however, the silence is golden, and the tranquil beach feels deserted. It's a great place to relax, and the single setup along the southern cliff is a very mellow place with some of the finest views around. Keep an eye out for Mr Long, a Chiang Mai massage master on a prolonged beach sabbatical. He gives undoubtedly some of the best massages on the island and trained some of the excellent masseuses at the Wellness Centre at Haad Thian.

Haad Thian

Not the finest of Ko Pha Ngan's eastern beaches, Haad Thian has a relatively small strip of sandy beach at the southern end, while rocks and mangroves dominate the centre and northern end. However, the swimming remains very good here with quite deep turquoise water.The major draw is the new-age alternative community which has developed. A variety of self-cleansing and wellness activities and courses are provided, mostly at the Sanctuary, but others have jumped on the bandwagon and offer yoga as well as cater to the fasting crowd, while others deny guests who are fasting. This little rock-lined cove remains one of the most peaceful spots on the island.

Haad Yuan

This long, sweeping beach is one of the most beautiful on Ko Pha Ngan. The sand is smooth and white and the water deep and crystal-clear for perfect swimming conditions. Quite isolated, Haad Yuan is a fairly peaceful spot, but its ever-increasing popularity has led more and more resorts to develop here, so it can get pretty crowded come high season, especially in the peak season when it's advisable to head to another beach if you don't like crowds. Fortunately, the rest of the time it maintains a mostly low key vibe, and the nights don't get too rowdy. A large selection of guesthouses and resorts are packed along the beach and up the rocky hillsides on both ends, so there's no lack of options. The quality and rates vary tremendously, and there's something here for most tastes and budgets. A good cross-section of very simple, rustic huts are available, mostly on the rocks, for backpackers and budget travellers. These places have laid-back old-school island vibes and the lowest rates. A couple of more lively and slightly more expensive spots populate the main beach along with a new luxury setup for upscale travellers.

Orientation

One can find most necessities in both Thong Nai Pan Yai and Thong Nai Pan Noi. A handful of little shops line the street through the village along with the giant Starlight mini mart right on the beach providing snacks, souvenirs and most essential -- and many non-essential -- items. ATMs are available in town as well. Most resorts will be able to provide some travel assistance, laundry service (40-50B/kilo) and motorbike rentals (200-250B/day), and internet access (2-3B/minute) is widely available.

-Ko Pha Ngan North Coast
Despite being one of the least developed parts of the island, Ko Pha Ngan's north coast, with the fishing village of Chaloklum at its centre has a surprisingly good range of beaches and accommodation to choose from. This stretch of beaches and bays has something for everyone -- from families with young children to night-owls and outdoorsy types to dedicated hammock-swingers. Ao Chaloklum is the largest bay, sweeping across from the west to around the centre of the north coast. Further to the east lies the miniscule Haad Khom, followed by the ever-increasingly popular Haad Khuad.

Ao Chaloklum

Chaloklum is Ko Pha Ngan's second port and also a major fishing village. Despite it having a selection of budget and midrange accommodations, Chaloklum has not been influenced by the influx of tourists in the same manner as other parts of the island and the village maintains a very authentic, almost charming, Thai atmosphere. The central part of the bay is dominated by a couple of piers, stacks of fishing boats and that authentic fishy sea smell you either love or hate. Due to the fishing boats, the water around the central area gets a bit murky and it's not great for swimming. Head to either the east or west extreme for much better beaches and water conditions. The western beach is peaceful and quite lovely with plenty of tree cover bordering the sandy beach, and an offshore breakwater provides a good deal of shelter. To the east, the beach is even better, and here you will find the majority of Chaloklum's guesthouses and beach bungalows.The town has a handful of very good Thai seafood restaurants, so if you stay in the area, be sure to wander into town at least once. There isn't much night life to speak of -- the bars are primarily small and simple, frequented mostly by locals and fishermen, but several of the bungalow operations provide good drinks in a relaxed atmosphere right on the beach. The Chinese temple just to the south of the village, on the road to Thong Sala is worth checking out as well, with its colourful Chinese architecture and several beautiful Buddha images.

Haad Khom

Haad Khom is a top spot if you'd like to stay away from the hordes but still be on a lovely beach and enjoy some of the best hospitality on Ko Pha Ngan. Although quite small, the beach here is beautiful with plentiful shade, squeaky white sand and crystal clear water. While the beach and shallow sea aren't as beautiful or good for swimming as Bottle Beach, Haad Khom has a much more chilled-out vibe these days, feeling more isolated than it actually is. Locals often boast it's the best place for snorkelling on the entire island. An extensive living coral reef offshore provides vast sea life to be explored; equipment can be borrowed or rented from most bungalow operators.The range of guesthouses is good, with options for most budgets and there's also a couple of great eateries. Most bungalows actually sit uphill rather than on the beach, but a few are on the sand, and none are too far removed. Electricity is only provided from approximately 18:00 to midnight daily, but it's really not necessary other times.It's about a 15-minute walk from Haad Khom to Chaloklum or about a two-hour hike to Bottle Beach, though the trail is poorly maintained if it doesn't see frequent foot traffic, so wear sturdy shoes and be prepared for one hell of a trek. If the tide is out, it's much easier to walk to Chaloklum along the beach rather than along the steep, dirt road. If you are walking to Bottle Beach, go over the hill, NOT around the rocks!
Bottle Beach

Once a largely undiscovered little gem isolated in the north of Ko Pha Ngan, Haad Khuad, better known to westerners as Bottle Beach, has become one of the most popular backpacker destinations on the island and continues to attract more new and repeat visitors. The crowd here consists mostly of younger sun worshippers, though it's a popular day trip destination frequented by boat tour operators from around the island. In spite of its rapidly-growing popularity, Bottle Beach still remains a relatively quiet and lovely spot to escape the worst crowds.Soft white sand surrounded by green hills and rocky palm-fringed headlands make this long, gently sweeping beach an ideal location. The crystal clear water is deep enough for some good swimming, and plenty of sun and shade alike are available for flopping in the sand.There are only four resorts on the beach -- and thankfully no room for any more. These are all good options, most very basic and cheap, although some of the newer units are more comfortable and quite a bit spendier. They all have their charms and some laid-back restaurants and bars to choose from.

Orientation

Of Chaloklum, Haad Khom and Bottle Beach, the latter is by far the most isolated, but even there, most services are readily available -- the only thing you'll need to go out of your way to find is an ATM.Chaloklum has just about everything a traveller could want or need -- including the only ATMs in the area and money exchange kiosks. There's also a couple of small markets, a good-sized pharmacy, a 7-eleven, book shops and plenty of travel agencies dotted through the village's narrow streets. While most resorts offer laundry services, you'll also find small mom and pop operations (where mom does most of the work) in Chaloklum itself.On Haad Khom you'll find a small travel agent at Coral Bay Bungalow, and the host at Coconut Beach is a wealth of information about the region. Coral Bay can also help with your laundry (50B/kilo).Bottle Beach is relatively undveloped but most services can be found here. Snacks and basic supplies can be purchased in most bungalow receptions, and Haad Khuad Bungalow, AKA Bottle Beach 3, has a decent little shop with internet access (3B/minute), money exchange and travel booking.

-Ko Pha Ngan West Coast
The west coast of Ko Pha Ngan has some of the island's quietest bays and beaches along with some quite popular options. What this means is if you're looking for a relatively secluded place but would like a range of eateries within a short motorbike ride or walk, then this is a good option.

Ao Mae Haad

Located on the northwest corner of Ko Pha Ngan, this is a very pretty beach with a spit running out to Ko Ma, a small islet that lies just offshore. Though crossing conditions are best at low tide, the crossing can be made through shallow water when the tide comes back in. The sandbar separates the beach into two distinct area, the eastern end is shorter and largely unused by tourists. It gets muddy at low tide and local fishermen claim this area with their crab pots and longtail boats. The beach to the west of the spit is much longer and more beautiful, and this is where everyone flocks to find the best sunbathing spot. The snorkelling and swimming to the west of the islet are also outstanding. Mae Haad's beach consists mostly of soft white sand that extends out into the sea. The water is quite shallow and there is a good deal of coral just off the beach, so water activities are best done during high tide, but beyond the reef, a dropoff makes for some excellent swimming no matter what the tidal conditions. There is a clear channel however, that grants relatively coral-free access to greater depths toward the centre of the beach marked by a signpost. This is a very popular area attracting a loyal repeat crowd, particularly Europeans.Occasional loud techno parties pump till dawn here, so head to another beach for the evening if this isn't your cup of tea or invest in earplugs if you want a good night's sleep. However, most of the time, Mae Haad remains a fairly quiet and peaceful stretch of beach. The accommodations here are primarily inexpensive and basic.If you're after a break from the beach, the Wang Sai waterfall is a short walk away, and has a lovely little pool for swimming, though the water can be cloudy with silt in the rainier seasons, so don't dive right in if you can't see the rocky bottom.

Ko Ma

This small island just off Ao Mae Haad has a couple of good but small stretches of beach along with the sandbar that connects it to the mainland at low tide, but overall the beaches are better on Ko Pha Ngan -- especially as the island is not as pristine as it once was. Scattered trash and piles of used bottles tend to greet visitors in the coconut grove that grants access from Mae Haad as well as along the path above the beach. However, Ko Ma remains a very peaceful place. There is just one resort on the island, so there are typically not many people around besides those coming from Mae Haad to check things out. There is good snorkelling around the island, particularly to the west, and a kayak trip around the island grants access the many otherwise unreachable coves and inlets that are fun to explore and teeming with rock crabs and small fish.

Haad Salad

Known to Thais as an oldtime pirate hangout where booty was loaded onto ships before setting sale for trading ports, Haad Salad in the northwest of Ko Pha Ngan, was a sleepy and relatively undeveloped beach until the past decade or so when resorts and bungalow operations have sprung up across the full length of its white sands and up the surrounding hills. Several budget spots still offer simple rooms to backpackers with mosquito nets, hammock-strung balconies and little else while a couple of fancier resorts with all the bells and whistles help visitors unload more booty. One advantage of this development is that several markets, internet cafes and travel agencies have sprung up as well.Nonetheless, this remains a peaceful and mostly quiet spot with an abundant selection of restaurants and accommodations to choose from for travellers of all stripes. Old-timers could be disappointed, but nearby and much smaller beaches provide a little more peace and quiet. The soft white sand rimmed with palms for shade is great for laying out or sunset strolls, and a lovely reef with a plethora of colourful tropical fish and hard and soft corals lies about 150 metres offshore providing some of the island's best snorkelling. Swimming is best from November to April when the tides are higher, but the sea provides some nice splashing opportunities year round.

Haad Khruad

This small, hidden away bay is mostly rocky with a tiny stretch of beach in the centre. The sand is a mix of course pebbles and coral deposits, but sunbathing on a good thick towel is a popular activity here. A few well-placed palms offer some shade too. The water is really too shallow and the sea floor too rocky to swim unless you head out past the reef. A boardwalk along the southern headland makes deep water access easy and less painful on the tootsies. A single bungalow setup operates on this tranquil and laid-back beach, but accommodations can be found in the surrounding hills as well.

Haad Thian West

The retaining wall dominates Haad Thian, but there is a small stretch of sand mixed with coral off to the side. The reef is not far offshore, so snorkelling with the abundant sea life is quite convenient. Those who prefer not to swim in shallow water over rocks and hard coral should head out past the reef to the dropoff as well. With just one resort here it's a very tranquil place to unwind though a bit spendier than other secluded spots.

Haad Yao

Also known as Long Beach, Haad Yao boasts over a kilometre of white sand. This very popular beach has some excellent snorkelling and swimming, particularly to the north, which is best enjoyed at high tide, as the sea is relatively shallow and only gradually gets deeper further out. With a relaxed feel, fine white sand and plentiful shade, many have been known to call it "the perfect beach". There are plenty of resorts and guesthouses to choose from, stretching all along the beach and up the rocky headlands at either end, and it feels a little crowded when these places start to fill in the peak season. While Haad Yao has something to offer for all budgets, a variety of slightly more upscale operations have pushed up the average prices here a bit higher than comparable spots elsewhere on the island. Haad Yao has a laid back yet classy atmosphere and has something to offer families, backpackers and just about everyone else.In the evenings many of the resorts light beach bonfires and serve drinks and food around them. A couple of local bars throw occasional parties but otherwise the nightlife is rather sedate and comprised of people huddling in beach bars playing reggae. Haad Yao remains a very social place with some of the best dining around. It's certainly the most developed and popular place on Ko Pha Ngan's west coast.

Haad Son Beach

This secluded, sleepy little beach is home to a single resort and boasts swimming and some good snorkelling to be had for those who wade out past the reef. This palm-lined, rather wide strip of mostly soft white sand and small coral pieces is lovely and quite tranquil. It's very easily accessed and is not too far from either Ao Chaophao to the south or Haad Yao to the north. Accommodation here is just the single upscale resort, so backpackers and other budget travelers are best advised to find cheaper accommodations nearby and make this a day trip destination. It's certainly worth checking out.

Ao Chaophao

The beach along this gently curving bay isn't quite as pretty as some further north with a relatively narrow strip of sand, but it's still a very good choice for swimming and sunbathing and is generally a very relaxed place. The water gets deep faster here than at most nearby beaches, so the swimming is better regardless of the tide. The laid-back and mostly inexpensive lodging here attracts a good mix of people and a lot of repeat customers. Old style family-run bungalow setups are popular among backpackers, but some fancier and better-equipped options have recently developed here as well. The food is a particular draw card, with a couple of great bungalow restaurants, including wonderful fresh seafood, plenty of vegetarian options, and delicious authentic Thai food at good prices. The deeper water and coral reef about 100 metres offshore beyond which lie a lovely variety of corals and sea life make this a popular spot for divers and snorkellers as well.

Ao Seethanu

The village of Baan Seethanu is a quiet little town that maintains a more Thai feel than other more developed areas on Ko Pha Ngan but offers a good selection of shops and restaurants and more services than many lower key spots. Half of the beach here has been developed into a small anchorage for the local fishing fleet, which has had a detrimental effect on the beach and the water quality toward the middle and southern end of the beach. A good deal of noise can be expected as boats come and go, but this is luckily not an all day phenomenon. Despite this, the northern end still has reasonable swimming and sunbathing, and a nearby coral reef is a convenient spot to do some snorkelling. Much of this wide sandy beach is unshaded, so pack plenty of sunblock and a hat. The northern end of the bay is more popular with a good mix of budget accommodations, some of which are divided by an often nasty river as you get further toward the middle of the beach. At the southern end of the bay there is a small cluster of places, some on the bay shore but mostly up on the headland. This southern area is quieter and more low key, and while the views are quite nice, the beach is not.

Ao Plaaylaem

Ao Plaaylaem is a short stretch of beach toward the southwest corner of Ko Pha Ngan. It has a very old school feel that's popular among backpackers who want a peaceful no-frills place to chill out. The classic island style bungalows provide some of the cheapest and most basic lodging on the island, a throwback to days gone by. Most setups here are family run and very relaxed with less than elegant but charming fan bungalows, with some newer air-con units springing up in recent years. These setups also offer simple restaurants where the food is cheap and delicious and the sunset views are always sure to please. Recommended for backpackers and those seeking a simple and rustic island experience the way it used to be. It's proximity to Thong Sala make Plaaylaem a handy spot to escape the crowds while having easy access to the services and transportation options provided there along with far more dining options. The beach here is better than some others in the south with good swimming in clear water except in the lower tidal season (May to July), and the soft sand is always good for sunbathing. The snorkelling isn't great here but gets a little better towards the northern end. The quiet and peaceful vibes here lend themselves nicely to hanging out with a book or good friend and soaking up the island atmosphere.

Ao Wok Tum

Although Ao Wok Tum is a wide sweeping bay, most of the budget accommodations are clustered behind a breakwater at the southern end of the bay -- a positioning choice which may do wonders for keeping the water calm, but isn't overly scenic. Ao Wok Tum is one of the quieter and least-developed areas of Ko Pha Ngan feeling largely untouched by tourism compared to most of the island. The coral reef 300 metres offshore is really too far out to make it a popular snorkelling destination, and the beach, though long and sandy is good for little more than sunbathing and long, secluded strolls. Not a bad choice for these activities, but swimming in this shallow bay is mediocre at best.

Ao Hinkhong

The northern end of Wok Tum blends into Ao Hinkhong. The north and south end of this beach are named differently because they are sometimes divided by a small canal emptying into the sea. This stretch of coast, on the beach and across the road, is primarily occupied by locals and long-term renters, but a handful of cheap bungalow setups are widely spaced along the beach providing a good deal of solitude but mostly below-average quality bungalows. The swimming here, like Wok Tum, is not great, but the views and isolation are quite relaxing.

Orientation

Though a fairly small town, Mae Haad has three small shops with internet access and a couple of travel agencies. A laundry service is also provided at these shops as well as at most bungalow operations. Money exchange is available at Royal Orchid resort, but there's no ATMs at Mae Haad -- the closest are at Chaloklum to the east and Haad Salad to the south.Haad Salad has a couple of ATMs, along with money exchange (at Salad Beach Resort and Green Papaya). Laundry service is provided by most bungalow setups and resorts and a couple of mom and pop operations in Haad Salad. A good selection of internet shops and travel agencies line the streets, and many resorts offer these services as well.Haad Yao has just about everything a traveller could want. Two good-sized supermarkets at the northern end sell souvenirs, snacks, books and snorkels. Several other smaller shops line the road and can be found at resorts along the beach. ATMs are available along the road and at Ibiza Bungalows toward the centre of the beach. Laundry service is available most places for 40-50B/kilo, and practically every setup now offers internet access. Everyone and their dog also rents motorbikes.Ao Chaophao has a number of small shops along the road behind the beach which can provide basic groceries and supplies. Several internet shops and travel agencies can be found as well. Motorbikes can be rented just about anywhere for exploring the many beaches on this coast. There is no ATM here, rather you'll need to head north to Haad Yao.In spite of the sleepy and laid-back atmosphere, most services one could need can be found in Baan Seethanu. Money exchange is available at the Beach Resort toward the centre of the beach, and ATMs are posted outside a couple of shops in the village. Travel services and motorbike rentals are available at most resorts here as well as some independent agencies in town. These plenty of internet access as well.Wok Tum has limited services available -- laundry service is provided by most setups, and internet access can be found Golden Hill and Wok Tum Resorts, but there are no ATMs nor money exchange, so you'll need to head south to Thong Sala or north to Seethanu.